Skopje Stories: Cevapi, Culture, and the Heart of Macedonia

A City of Surprises

Skopje wasn’t what I expected, and that’s what made it so special. Over three days, I explored the North Macedonian capital, peeling back its layers like pages in an old, weathered book. This episode of An Englishman in the Balkans is a personal reflection of that journey. Part travelogue, part cultural postcard.

A Bite of Tradition

One stop I couldn’t miss was Destan, a traditional restaurant tucked into the old Čaršija, the Ottoman-era heart of the city. Half a somun, chopped onions, a fiercely roasted pepper, and a bottle of old-fashioned Coca-Cola. No frills, just flavour. And somehow, in that simple dish of local Ćevapi, I felt welcomed. It’s food that speaks the language of belonging.

Skopje, Through Local Eyes

The city’s energy really came alive when I sat down with my friend Risto. His stories gave context to what I’d seen. The Stone Bridge, the juxtaposition of brutalist architecture with neoclassical facades, the slow mornings over coffee and rakija. Skopje is a city of contrasts, but its heartbeat remains constant: community, resilience, and quiet pride.

The Rhythm Beneath the Surface

There’s something about Skopje that lingers. It’s in the buzz of the cafés, the calm of the Vardar River, and the casual kindness of strangers. Despite the cranes and construction, the soul of the city, its rhythm, hasn’t changed. And that’s what I’ll take with me.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe